Part 1 of this workshop series features the foundation skirt of the 1880s- a genius garment that married elements of a slip, lining and underskirt, but went above and beyond.
The foundation skirt of this era often featured a built-in bustle, created structure and fullness underneath floaty fashion fabrics, acted as a base for kilt pleating, dagged hemlines and more. Tulle and china silk ballgowns too thin and sheer for stiffened hems floated over taffeta foundation skirts that provided opacity and structure. Both day dresses and ballgown trains often had the hoops built in, and faked the look of multiple skirts with opulent yardage using small pieces of fabric appliqued on. Many 1880s underskirts were actually illusions- a narrow strip of luxe velvet sewn around the lower half of a foundation skirt, and tiers of filmy lace revealed in a side vent were simply rows of short ruffles stitched on.
Class begins with a review of original source material, pattern diagrams and period examples, including several original foundation skirts from the instructor's collection. Students will create their own cotton foundation skirt version with bustle hoops, pad and hem treatment in class, using Truly Victorian's 1885 Four-Gore skirt pattern (paper or epattern available). It can be used as a stand-alone garment or put into the waistband of an outer skirt or dress.
https://trulyvictorian.info/index.php/product/tv261p-1885-four-gore-underskirt-paper-pattern/
The workshop includes a pdf handout, supply list, bonus pdf materials and a partial class kit (hoop wire, end caps & mini pleater board*). Part 2: 1890s-1900s is in development, coming soon!
*Mini pleater board enables student to replicate hem frill identical to an original in the instructor's collection.*
Chantal is a chihuahua parent, professional costume designer and the Founder/Dean of Costume On.
As a professional costume designer/seamstress/milliner she has designed and constructed clothing and costumes for every type of media and project, from space suits for film to 19th century replicas for a museum. She has taught for Costume College, Costume On, Costumers Guild West, Grant Larson Productions, Genesee Country Village & Museum and others.
Her first garment was a pair of shorts made out of a towel, and they were absolutely terrible.
Chantal Filson
1886 / Costume On
These glorious skirts were made by students in previous sessions of The 1890s Skirt Hem master class.
Skirt by K. Stelzer